97

$370

Krug Brut Champagne Clos du Mesnil 1990 A seductive mosaic of honey and walnut notes finishes with flavors of baking bread and citrus in this masculine, youthful champagne. A winner.

95

$58

Charles Ellner Brut Champagne 1995 A gorgeous champagne. A cornucopia of toast, coffee and citrus aromas and flavors, all matched to a light body and supple texture.

93

$45

Bollinger Brut Champagne Special Cuvee NV James Bond’s choice, it’s complex and elegant, evoking ginger, jasmine, citrus and honey aromas and flavors. Drink now.

92

$70

Charles Heidsieck Brut Rose Champagne 1996 Delicious from start to finish. Silky, harmonious and complex, with coffee, mushroom and citrus notes in a vibrant presentation.

91

$35

Piper-Heidsieck Brut Champagne NV Complex, toasty nose leads to candied citrus, honey and toast flavors in a medium-bodied, sumptuous profile. Drink now.

93

$80

Schramsberg J. Schram Napa-Monterey-Mendocino Counties 1997 A rich, vibrant, concentrated wine that unfolds gracefully, with complex aromas of citrus, hazelnut, fig and nectarine.

90

$39

Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley L’Ermitage 1998 A very classy effort, with a sleek core of ripe, spicy, ginger- and pear-scented flavors, turning smooth and elegant.

87

$18

Mumm Napa Brut Napa Valley Prestige NV Creamy, intense and lively, pear, spice and vanilla flavors, finishing with a clean, refreshing aftertaste. Drink now to 2007.

86

$11

Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut Columbia Valley Cuvee NV From an excellent Washington winery, the sweet and spicy flavors make a fine match with roasted nuts, dried fruits.

83

$11

Korbel Brut California NV A range of apple, citrus and nectarine fruit flavors makes this widely available wine a crowd-pleaser. It’s also hard to beat the price.